1.
Where can I get the center and side wraps in a different
colour other than white?
We make the wraps in house, and you can paint them very
easily any colour you want when you paint your airplane. The
center wrap material we receive all comes in a white fabric.
Customers either leave it white or paint it when they paint
their aircraft. -
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2. How do I take all the paint off
before I patch?
The first thing is to sand it down so that the paint is
not shiny anymore. Use a 240 grit sand paper so that the
glue will have something to bite to. Put a layer of glue
down first then place your patch over and again glue down.
Let it dry well, then prime and pain. The process is not
difficult but it takes a bit of patience to do it right.
-
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3. How do I prevent a rip from getting
bigger? How do I fix a rip?
This can be fixed quite easily by using a hot knife to
melt both ends of the rip so that it will not go any
further. Then you can put a piece of trim tape to further
prevent it from tearing. We only recommend this on small
rips, larger ones may require the fabric to be replaced. -
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4.
How do I correct some pinholes in the paint finish?
This was most likely caused because the paint was too thick
on the first application. If the12-24 hour window for a
second coat has passed, it will be necessary to sand the
surface before applying another topcoat. Use a little more
thinner in the paint when you paint and this should prevent
the pinholes from reappearing. -
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5. What is the best way to spray the
primer on?
Spraying the primer on may take three coats to seal all
of pinholes in the fabric. The first coat is light and must
be thinned out lots (50/50). Let this coat flash off a
little longer so that all the thinner can evaporate and on
the second coat you will not get solvent popping. -
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6. What equipment can you suggest I use
when applying my paint?
Here are some suggestions from the Endura literature:
Conventional spray
devilbiss: JGA or MBC spray gun (#31, 43 or 80 air cap) .070
AV 650 EX fluid tip
Binks: BBR AP-19 or AP21 air cap, AO47 fluid tip
Conventional pressure pot
Devilbiss: JGA or MBC (# 43 air cap) AV 650 EX will produce
low over spray and low atomization for frames. when using a
pressure pot and a high amount of atomization is desired use
a 797 air cap and an AV 650 FX fluid tip.
Binks BBR AP-19 or AP-21 air cap, AO47 fluid tip.
Air pressure: cup gun (siphon feed) 310-345 kPa
(45-50 psi) at gun.
Pressure pot 103-172 kpa (10-20 psi) at the pot
-
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7. How big should my tank and compressor
be?
This depends on what gun you decide to use. Find out what
the CFM (cubic feet per minute) the gun needs to work
properly. Some pressure pot guns need a higher CFM to work
well.
You will also get a drop in CFM if you use a small diameter
hose. We suggest a 1/2" diameter hose.
You should use a small pressure gauge on your gun not on the
wall then hook up lets say a fifty foot hose. I found that
by the time the air got to my gun I had only 20 to 30 psi at
the gun when the wall gauge was reading 55.
To assist in uniformity of finish with metallics cross
coating at a slightly higher pressure (55-60 psi increase)
is recommended.-
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8. Will a hvlp gun work to apply the
polyurethane paint?
The hvlp gun will probably work but first talk to someone
that uses this type of gun. We suggest contacting an auto
body shop and ask them if it will work with a polyurethane
paint.
Endura paint is a polyurethane. Endura suggests some guns
may give an orange peel effect when spraying a polyurethane
even though they say they will spray enamels. Using an hvlp
gun is different than a conventional gun. The speed at which
you make your passes across whatever you are painting is
slower and the atomization of the paint is in larger
droplets.
If you need more info you can also call Endura at
1-800-661-9930 -
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9. Can you give me any tips or
hints on applying my decals?
Start with a straight edge and lay down a whole side to keep
things straight. As long as you haven’t applied too much
pressure, you may be able to reposition the decal. Using a
spray bottle filled with water, will allows you to move the
decal if necessary. Use only a bit of water, as too much
water will cause bubbles under the decal.
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10. How much paint do I need if I
want to paint stripes on the tail and wings?
This will ultimately depend on the size of the stripes. We
will supply you with two litres of “A” and two litres of
“B” and this will cover half of the wing and the tail
surface area. If you have a certain pattern in mind and let
us know, we can give you more specific recommendations but
generally the ½ gallon of A and ½ gallon of B gives you
plenty of paint to do a secondary color. -
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11. Do all the fabric overlaps need
finishing tape to protect them and seal the joint?
Yes, all the fabric overlaps need finishing tape to protect
them and seal the joints. See the attached picture that
shows how to place a patch around the undercarriage and the
down tube where the side cabin fabric comes in contact. Our
covering video demonstrates this application. - back
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12. How do I get the glue on the ribs
to stick to the fabric?
Heating the glue makes it bond to the rib better. Heat the
glue well with you iron and push on the fabric a little bit
on the side of the rib to get some more surface to hold
down. Make sure your ribs are clean and clear of any debris.
It is important to have a good bonding surface. Again the
Covering video provided with your kit will detail this
further. - back
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13. How do I fix the edges of my
trim tape where the pinked edges are loose without damaging
the ceconite?
You should be able to reglue the tape back down. Use heat on
the glue after it is dry to make a better bond. -
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14.
How do you suggest I do the fabric covering around the
filler neck on the in-wing tank?
Our suggestion is to cut it out of the fabric and then put a
piece of trim tape around and leave it like that. In the
event you have a leaking tank the trim tape can be pulled
off. Remember the fabric scallops in between each wing rib
section and make sure the edges are taped off! -
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15.
How do you suggest I do the fabric covering around the
filler neck on the in-wing tank?
Our suggestion is to cut it out of the fabric and then put a
piece of trim tape around and leave it like that. In the
event you have a leaking tank the trim tape can be pulled
off. Remember the fabric scallops in between each wing rib
section and make sure the edges are taped off! -
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16.
What suggestions can you give me for prepping my wings for
gluing the fabric on?
Most importantly, make sure your glue has not frozen. Any AL
tube you are gluing must be clean and only clean what you
are going to cover that day. To ensure it is clean, rub a
white rag over it. Use a thinner to wipe it down and then
glue.
Do
not clean every component and then two days later glue and
cover it.
Make sure you have prepped the wing ribs and have glue on
each of the raw wing ribs. When your wing is all covered and
the final heat shrink is done, then you apply the glue
through the fabric to the glue on the wing rib. -
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17.
What kind of glue would you suggest I use for joining the
tank filler necks?
Any glue that fuel will not affect. A good 2-part epoxy
is fine as well as sealant. -
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18. What kind of thinner do I use to
clean the metal before I glue?
Use the thinner that you are using for painting. The
whole idea about cleaning is to get that initial layer of
oxidized AL off. You don’t want to be laying glue over a
layer of something or any contamination. Make sure the metal
is dry before gluing. -
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19. Do I have to wait for the glue to
dry before I can glue on the finishing tape?
You have to let the glue dry before putting on the
finishing tape. The finishing tape is put on after shrinking
of the fabric. Depending on heat and temperature you may be
able to do this within 6-8 hours. -
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20. What prep work needs to be done if
I want to paint the inside of the tubing on the frame?
You need to do some prep work on the tube even before
you put the covering on the body and the fin. Once the frame
is all built, clean all of the tubes at once. First, use an
aluminum cleaner. Use this cleaner (it is an acid so put
gloves and safety glasses on) with a scotch brite pad and
scrub the tube down. Rinse the cleaner off with water and
make sure the cleaner does not dry on the tube before you
rinse. After you rinse the cleaner off, put alodine 1200s on
the tube. Rub the alodine on with a soaked cloth (no scotch
brite pad) and then rinse with water. Again, do not let the
alodine dry before you rinse. Your tubes will now have a
copper tinge to them and this means the primmer will adhere
to the tubes. Blow all of the excess water out of the tubes
and brackets and let them dry before you cover the body and
fin. If you follow these steps and keep them clean before
you paint, then you will have no problems later on with the
paint peeling off of your tubes. -
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Well, we hope that we have clarified a few of your
questions. If you do require additional assistance, we would be very happy to hear from
you with your questions, comments or concerns.
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